

How to restore the thread of the stud fastening in the block head?
I gave the engine to the bulkhead. The experts tightened the nuts on the head mounting studs and pulled out the stud. The thread in the block is damaged (ripped out along with the hairpin). They say that the joint is not theirs. As if the engine had already been disassembled before them, and this hairpin held on to the snot.
Now it is advised to buy a new unit. Need some advice. Maybe somehow you can restore the thread in the duralumin block, so as not to spend money on buying a new one?
While repairing the engine head, you may need to replace the Head Studs. Maybe somehow you can restore the thread in the duralumin block, so as not to spend money on buying a new one? Can. You order a new hairpin from the turner, legs with a thread at the end of a larger diameter, and cut a new thread into the holes, with a larger diameter.
Often in the process of repairing a car, motorcycle, or installing new equipment, inadvertent damage to the internally threaded part in the holes (thread for a candle, bolt, or stud) occurs.
Perhaps you applied a tightening torque greater than the calculated tightening torque, or initially, the bolt did not go along the thread and jammed the first threads of the entrance. In such cases, it is necessary to restore the threaded hole so that you can continue to operate your equipment. So how do you repair a broken thread?
If the damage is insignificant and is reduced only to the “jamming” of threads, then it is enough to go through the final (finishing) tap (usually number 3) and the problem will be eliminated. But what to do when threads are damaged in soft metals such as aluminum, copper, or tin? In such cases, the restoration of the thread is reduced to the installation of a special part – a screwdriver.
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Threaded screwdrivers are hollow cylindrical devices that have already cut threads of the required size and pitch inside, and a large thread on the outer surface. It is usually made of steel, brass, or copper and is surface hardened and hardened.
The outer diameter of each threaded insert in the free state is larger than the receiving thread by a precisely calculated amount. This difference provides the necessary preload at the seat of the threaded insert and prevents it from unscrewing itself.
The threaded inserts are located firmly and practically without play in the receiving thread. With this very firm fit, there is no need to use glue for fixing, as is the case with the classic sleeve.
For an even stronger fit and, accordingly, an even more reliable threaded connection, special, locking threaded inserts are available (such inserts have a different color than the standard ones – usually red).
If you wish to read about Asterisk War Season 3, please click here. Blocking inserts differ from ordinary inserts in that one of the turns is made in the form of a hexagon. This completely prevents spontaneous unscrewing of the threaded insert and bolt during vibration, cyclic temperature changes.